There’s a first time for everything!

For the first time in my life I can say that I was genuinely, 100% unthinkingly impulsive. “What is this madness?!” you say? Let me dive right in.

I’d been preparing to leave Australia and continue my adventure in North America. I had hostels booked in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Chicago. My train and flights were locked in, as was an Alcatraz tour. I was ready to rock.

I’d closed my bank accounts, lodged my tax return and made the necessary enquiries with regard to claiming back superannuation in Australia.

When it came to packing, everything got a bit real. It hit home that I would be on the move again as I decanted my washing powder into a zip lock bag. That’s when I started to think about sharing a room with up to 7 other people, about queueing for washing machines. About standing in a flooded shower tray because I refused to pick out someone else’s hair from the plug hole and finally about having to wash up before being able to cook anything and then washing up again afterwards because I couldn’t, in good conscience, leave it. That’s when it all started to get real.

The day came and I dragged my sorry self to the airport. With every stop the bus made, I had felt less and less excited and more apprehensive. Not the excited kind of apprehension you expect but instead a kind of creeping doom. I genuinely felt like getting onto a plane anywhere that wasn’t London just wasn’t going to cut it. This feeling intensified as my check in time got closer.

It was check in minus 10 minutes and I was fantasising about reasons not to go to the USA and to go home instead. That’s when it hit me. Surely, just wanting to go home was a good enough reason to do it? I decided immediately that it was and marched myself to the Virgin Australia ticket desk.

During the march I decided to pay no more than $1200AUD to get home. I waited in a most un-British and impatient manner whilst the lady tapped away checking flight availability. In my head, all I could hear, was my plaintiff request to the universe ‘Please be less than 1200 bucks’ repeating over and over and over. Finally she finished on the computer and said “Oh, well with airport taxes it comes to $1150. Is that alright? It’s a fair cost for that flight”. By the time she’d finished her spiel I was in tears and thrusting my cash and credit card at her. Bless her. She was ever so worried and kept asking if I was alright but all I could do was nod, smile through my bawling and say “I’m bloody brilliant. I’m going home!”.

And that is the most spontaneous thing I’ve ever done. Fact.

Australia never knew what hit it

When I first floated the idea of staying in Australia for a few months, one of the things I did was ask friends and family if they would visit. My eldest sister said her brood would make the trip over if I had somewhere for them to stay and acted as tour guide. Needless to say, the promise was kept and they joined me in Melbourne for 10 short days. Here, I will chronicle what we got up to over Christmas and New Year 2013/2014.

The first thing was transport. I am happy as a frog in a pond using public transport for everything but that’s not practical with four people. Instead of trying to deal with public transport for the whole trip, I decided hiring a car would be the best idea. I managed to secure a fairly reasonable deal through vroomvroomvroom.com.au with Hertz rental in the CBD. We rented a very nice Toyota Corolla which served us well in our adventures (as you’ll read). The reservation and collection procedures were fuss free and I would recommend Hertz as a hire company.

The flight my family were on got delayed about an hour so I drove down to the viewing spot past Tullamarine (to the north) and see if I could watch their plane land. Thanks to a very clever flight tracking website (which told me when they were descending to landing altitude), I did see it . Unfortunately the plane was quite a long way away so, I knew it was them but, couldn’t get a decent photo.

I’d been determined to have a proper ‘Hollywood’ type welcome for them so I’d dutifully made a sign to hold above my head as I craned my neck trying to spot them.

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There were obligatory hugs and tears between sisters at the airport. The male relatives just rolled their eyes and carried on as normal with a nod and “Alright? Nice to see ya”.

We had a hectic schedule for the first few days and we launched right into task number one but it’s not what you’d expect.

The first thing my family did on holiday was go to the dentists. My brother in law (BiL from now on) had managed to pull the cap off his tooth whilst in the airport. That means we had to find an emergency dentist willing to reattach it very early in the morning. Luckily, such a dentist existed and we were met at Elsternwick Family Dentists at 7am. Long story short, glue got applied  and we left for the Great Ocean Road on time.

Our first activity on the Great Ocean Road was surfing. As I’m British, and a fraidy cat, I’d never surfed before in any way, shape or form but it was on the bucket list. I did preliminary research and ended up booking a 2 hour session with Great Ocean Road Surf Tours based in Torquay.

We met at the shop in Torquay on time an were dutifully sorted with wet suits and boards. We then followed the main van to Urquharts Bluff which is where we did our session. We were given an instructional demonstration and safety briefing by the instructors  and then waded in. I was hopeless for many reasons. Firstly, I am ridiculously unfit and surfing is hard. You’re constantly battered by the waves and fighting against the current. I got tired very quickly. Secondly, I kept getting mouthfuls of salt water. This is one of the single most unpleasant thing you can get in your mouth (*chortle chortle*) and I seemed determined to drink the entire ocean. Thirdly, contact lenses do not like salt water. Fourthly, I have no sense of balance or general coordination. BiL was far better than me and managed to actually stand on the board a few times. My ‘standing’ bit were more vertical sections of a fall in progress. Very embarrassing but excellent fun. Here’s an action shot where you can’t tell how shocking I was.

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From Torquay we headed along to Apollo Bay which is were we would rest our heads for the evening. We stayed at Otway lodge in their ‘family’ room. basically the family room was a dorm for the exclusive use of 1 group. We paid $160 for 3 adults and 1 child with breakfast included. I think that’s pretty jolly reasonable. The place was clean, there was parking for the car and the brekkie spread was actually fairly admirable. My only criticism was of the blinds over the windows. They let every single ray of light into the room which is not ideal. Overall, I’d stay there again.

We spent the evening BBQing dinner on the public BBQs along Apollo Bay main street before collapsing into bed. We had an early start.

The next morning, we were scheduled to do impressive amounts of wildlife spotting. We headed to Grey River Road near Kennett River to spot koalas, wallabies and kangaroos. We were not disappointed!

The first successful koala spot was made by my nephew. What you’re looking for when hunting wild koalas is a furry, round, grey bottom. I’m not joking. Look for a fuzzy , football shaped grey lump in the trees and you’ll see a koala on Grey River Road. As they are nocturnal, we went very early in the morning hoping to catch them just as they headed to bed for the day. We weren’t disappointed. We saw numerous sleeping koalas, a couple of awake but immobile ones and finally, the cutest of the cute, a very active Mum and baby. AWWWWWWWWWWW! You can just see them up in the branches of the tree here.

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As you drive along Grey River Road, there’s heaps more wildlife around the place. You’ll see colourful birds, creepy crawlies and, if you’re luck, wallabies and knagaroos. It’s pretty hard to get pictures of them though because they’re fairly skittish. We saw far more wallabies than kangaroos. The way to tell them apart is this: Kangaroos have pointy ears, wallabies have round ears. Here is a wallaby who hung around long enough for a picture.

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Grey River Road does get a bit hairy to drive on further along it so I wouldn’t do the whole road unless you’re in a decent car. I was very worried in the Corolla but needn’t have been. The car was fine, I swore a little bit though.

After the wildlife, we headed to the Cape Otway lighthouse. There are more koalas to see along the road to the lighthouse too but Grey River Road is better.

Last time I did the Great ocean Road, the lighthouse was closed because it was the off season. This time though it was open so we paid up and headed in. It’s $18.50 per adult and $7.50 for the kiddies. Overall, I think it’s worth it because there’s a fair bit to see in the grounds. You have the old telegraph station, a cafe, a war time bunker and some tall poles which were transmitters for something, maybe? Obviously the main attraction is the lighthouse because it’s beautiful.

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We headed up the lighthouse and enjoyed the spectacular view from the top. Simply stunning:

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We wandered around the grounds and enjoyed the information on offer from both static exhibits and also the guides in the complex. It’s a really lovely place to just relax so we decided to have lunch at the cafe there. It was very delicious but the gold star for that day;s cuisine goes to the millionaires shortbread (a.k.a. caramel slice) we shared. My goodness, it was the best one I’ve had in a long time. Most places in Australia pack the biscuit base with coconut which is a crime against food really as it should be a shortbread base and there’s no coconut in shortbread my dears. This one didn’t though. It was gloriously coconut free and all the tastier for it. Go and eat one if you’re at the lighthouse.

An interesting thing about Cape Otway is that dinosaur bones have recently been discovered there. The old telegraph station houses a small exhibit about the fossils and types of dinosaurs which have been linked to the coast and it’s very interesting. What we liked best though was the ingenious graffiti on the wildlife sign.

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We did do other things on the Great Ocean Road but I blogged about them in my other entry so I’m not going to retread old ground. If you want to know about the 12 apostles or other attractions then please do look up my older blog entry.

We got back to Melbourne from the Great ocean road at about 8 o’clock on Christmas eve. There was a quick trip to the supermarket for essentials and then straight to bed as Christmas day had a packed schedule too.

Melbourne zoo is open every single day of the year and it’s where we chose to go on Christmas day. I had pre-bought tickets online and, as a result, we breezed past the substantial line of people queuing and straight into the zoo. I cannot recommend enough buying tickets in advance for attractions in Melbourne. It saves you time and stress. We paid $30 per adult for the zoo but nothing for the kiddie because on weekends and public holidays, children visit for free.

The last zoo I went to was in Singapore and it was amazing. I knew Melbourne zoo would have to be pretty special to top Singapore zoo so I wasn’t surprised when it fell a little short. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a good zoo, and they have some great attractions, but it’s just not quite on the same level of epic as Singapore zoo is. I still had a great time though.

One of my favourite bits was the fairly new Lemur Island. You basically go and hang out with Lemurs in their enclosure. The lemurs aren’t really bothered by the visitors so long as they are quiet and slow. The lemurs tend to scarper when it gets too noisy or busy so try and get in if there’s a lull in human traffic.

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Melbourne zoo is definitely worth a visit but probably only one visit.

Instead of the Christmas dinner my family were used to, we headed down to Elwood beach for a BBQ. There’s a few public BBQ spots near the boat club and that’s where we settled in for a traditional Aussie Christmas. We even threw shrimps on the barbie….

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The beach at Elwood is generally much quieter than St Kilda and I do prefer it. We were treated to a gorgeous sunset.

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The schedule didn’t really ease up on Boxing day. We had a very early start in order to drive down to Sorrento for a day of dolphin spotting.

I had booked with Polperro in order to swim with seals and dolphins at Sorrento. We paid $130 per swimmer and, I have to say, it was complete value for money. The staff at Polperro are faultlessly wonderful, the equipment is good quality and you’re served freshly baked scones on the boat. If you want to do a dolphin spotting/swimming session near Melbourne, I would recommend Polperro very highly indeed.

Anyway, You are guaranteed to swim with the seals as they tend to all hang out in the same place on a big structure. I never realised just how agile seals are under the water. They’re also very, very cheeky. They shove and push each other around on the structure then they get in the water and pretend to be sharks. No really, they swim around with one flipper out of the water to look like a shark fin. As I was swimming around, there was one seal who kept swimming underneath me but it swam upside down. I spent a while chuckling at him swimming looking up at me while I was swimming looking down at him. The seal pups played and leapt out of the water higher than you thought could be possible. It was awesome to see them so close and for them to not give a toffee about you being there.

Here’s a picture of BiL, enjoyign a hot drink, with the seal structure in the background.

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We didn’t get to swim with dolphins as the pod we found had calves with them. As they’re wild dolphins, there’s no way Mummy dolphin would hang around with her babies if we got into the water so we were limited to watching them from the boat. It was still magical. The pod came right up to the bough of the boat and swam along with us. You can see how close to the boat they came:

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They also hung out further away.

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Polperro were very clear that they couldn’t assure us of swimming with dolphins when I booked and we were obviously disappointed that we didn’t get to go in with them but understood completely the reasons for that. In the end, it really didn’t detract from the enjoyment of the day for us as, whilst we were hunting for the dolphins, the crew talked to us about the history of the coast and the dolphins we were looking for. I really cannot say a bad thing about Polperro, they were great and did everything in their power to make the trip as enjoyable as possible.

As we’d been swimming around for a while, we’d ended up with rumbling tummies so we headed into Sorrento for food and what food it was. It seemed rude to be right on the coast and to not eat fish so, we went into Fish Fetish and got ourselves a family box. It was, hands down, the best fish and chips I have ever eaten. There was not only heaps of food but it was extra tasty food (except for the potato cakes but that’s just because I don’t understand the point of potato cakes). Nom.

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After stuffing our faces there, we needed a brew so we went to Just Fine Food a few shops down. We had a ‘famous’ vanilla slice but I didn’t think ti really deserved the acolades to be honest. It was an average vanilla slice that didn’t taste like it was made using real vanilla beans. It wasn’t bad but it wasn’t amazing. What it was was expensive.

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Anyway, a drive back to Melbourne and one speeding ticket later, we collapsed. Knackered doesn’t even cover it. We spent the next day chilling out before undertaking more sightseeing.

We’d seen a fair bit of the countryside around Melbourne by now so the next logical thing to see was the city itself. One of the things we definitely wanted to do was go up to the Eureka Skydeck. I had bought the tickets in advance and enjoyed 10% off thanks to being a YHA member (Youth Hosteling Association). We went at about 10 in the morning and ti was basically empty. When we left at about 11:30, the queue sprawled out of the door so, go early.

From the 88th floor, you can post letters (which we did) and get a great view of the city. It’s so easy to forget the size of places when you’re at ground level. Melbourne is big and impressive when you see it from so high up. Here’s a snap of Flinders Street station and Federation Square.

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There’s a very cool attraction at Eureka Skydeck. it’s called ‘The Edge’ and it’s basically a glass box which is ejected from the side of the building. Ok, ejected is a little dramatic but, it does extend away from the rest of the building so that you are 88 floors up with nothing under you. It’s absolutely, such a cool thing to do. It’s worth the extra $10 or so to go in it. We were very lucky again though as ti was so quiet, there were only four of us in the box. I’m sure they pack it much fuller at peak times. You get a cool picture to take home too (for a price though).

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Eureka Skydeck is well worth the money. Go if you can.

As it was Christmas time, we admired the decorations around the city whilst wandering. My favourite decoration had to be the giant mistletoe on the footbridge behind Flinders Street Station. I’m sure we were not the first, or last, people to strike this pose under it.

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We explored the city and took in the sights before heading to some green space. Fitzroy gardens are very picturesque and have a decent amount of things to look at. There’s a model Tudor village, multiple fountains and, most importantly, Captain Cooks cottage. That’s right, the cottage was moved from England and rebuilt in Fitzroy Gardens in Melbourne! The poor roof was probably very confused when it had to deal with sunshine and not rain. Here it is:

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You can go round it for an entrance fee but we wanted to play catch instead so we didn’t.

The last thing we did in Melbourne, before it was time for the flight home, was to enjoy the New Years Eve Family Friendly fireworks at Yarraville Park near the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG).

Melbourne did a good job with the fireworks and organisation of New Years eve. The City centre was marshaled to within an inch of its life. It was good to see such care had been taken in the planning. New years in London is just a free for all of pushing and shoving but in Melbourne, they’d barricaded off certain sections and had a one way pedestrian walking system working. It was wonderfully efficient. The fireworks were pretty too.

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So happy new year and Happy holidays from a bunch of Pommes in Melbourne!

New Zealand – Wowed in Wellington

I arrived in Wellington after an overnight trip with Naked Bus. It cost me $25NZD to get from Auckland to Wellington. I genuinely can’t fault Naked bus service or value.

I am fortunate enough to have family in Wellington so was greeted warmly at the bus stop and whisked away in a car. I did circumnavigate Wellington using public transport and found buses, trains and the cable car reliable and regular. The snapper card system is in use on busses but paying the driver is a very viable option too.

Wellington’s architecture is an interesting mix of awful and beautiful. There seems to be no happy medium. One of the buildings I thought was stunning is the old parliamentary building seen here.

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The new parliament building is hideous and resembles an air filter you might find in a bagless vacuum cleaner. You can see the very edge of it creeping into the left of the photo above but I’m not posting a picture of it because it offends me.

There’s plenty to see in Wellington. The streets are littered with sculptures, art works and intriguing buildings. Something to do which I cannot recommend highly enough is Zealandia.

Zealandia is an area of the City which has been fenced off for preservation. This means all introduced predators have been removed in order to reintroduce native species. It’s a really beautiful area and worth the entrance fee as you have the opportunity to see New Zealand nature as it was before settlers.

The animals range from feathered and noisy to scaled and silent. One of the scaled and silent types is the Tuatara.

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The Takahē is a flightless bird which was critically endangered a few years ago. Zealandia had a successful breeding pair who are contributing to the repopulation effort.

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Another native at Zealandia is the Tui. It has a distinctive white feather tuft on its chest and has an interesting song.

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Most New Zealand birds are muted as far as colouration goes. Take the Kaka, a native parrot. It’s colours are nothing like the vivid birds of Australia. The kaka has much more subtle brown and red tones.

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Zealandia really is a wonder to walk around and so close to the city that you simply have to go. There’s even a free shuttle bus that departs from the cable car terminal. No excuses.

New Zealand is famous for being the location for Lord of the Rings and Wellington is the home of Peter Jackson’s film studios. This means that much of the filming was in and around Wellington. I took the ultimate, full day tour with Wellington Movie Tours (www.movietours.co.nz). It took me to Helms Deep, the gardens of Isengard, Hobbiton woods, the production studios, Rivendell and the WETA cave workshop.

At Rivendell, you can compare heights with this handy post. I’m Gandalf amounts of tall.

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The whole day tour includes a sandwich lunch, collection from/return to city accommodation and all aspects of your tour. The tours use a mixture of movie clips and pictures on location so you really get a feel for what you’re looking at. There was also instances of posing and dressing up. It really was amazing fun and I’d recommend Wellington Movie Tours to anyone.

An extra I paid for was the ‘window into workshop’ tour at the WETA cave but before I gush about that, this is what greets you outside of the WETA cave.

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Anyway, the window into workshop tour is basically a treasure trove of WETA work. It’s not just Lord of the Rings in there; it’s District 9, The Chronicles of Narnia, Halo and a wealth of other interesting creatures and props. We were guided around by a bonafide painter who works there. He explained the processes involved in designing and producing props. It was incredible. If you’re a movie geek with an interest in special effects and props, pay the extra $20 and do the tour. You will be delighted.

During the day we also found a real New Zealand silver fern. Green on the top side, silver on the bottom.

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The day finished with us watching the sun set behind the south island. Beautiful.

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I visited the national museum of Te Papa too. It’s free to get into and had some interesting exhibits. I found the most informative to be the earthquake section. I really didn’t know much about fault lines, earthquakes or after shocks before visiting Te Papa and now I do. There’s an earthquake experience which gives you an idea of what an aftershock feels like. It really is very well done. The museum as a whole is very good and you should visit if you can.

One day, I took a train up the cost and explored an area called Paraparaumu. The train journey itself is scenic and enjoyable. Once in Paraparaumu, I walked the cost from Raumati beach to Paraparaumu beach. On the walk, you get great views of Kapati island. Very pretty!

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It’s a very lovely area of coast and well worth a trip on a good day. The beaches are clean and the cafés plentiful so you can relax with beauty surrounding you.

My time in Wellington flew by. Before I knew it, I was heading back to Auckland for my flight to Australia. I was utterly spoiled and taken care of in Wellington and it left me raring for more Aussie adventures.

Australia – Immigration Issues

Having decided I loved Melbourne, and that it wouldn’t do if I didn’t live there for a bit, I began wanting to apply for my Australian working holiday visa. This visa is offered to British passport holders under the age of 30 as a way to travel around Australia without breaking the bank. The process can be completed entirely online with the only major catch being that you cannot apply whilst in Australia. As a result, quite a bit of my time in Auckland was dedicated to visa logistics.

Normally visa approval is incredibly fast owing to the online automated system used by Australian immigration. You fill in the form at http://www.immi.gov.au, pay the several hundred pounds fee (£227 for mine I think) and within a day have your visa authorised. Unfortunately, mine was not this hassle free.

I had no idea that Hong Kong was a high risk area for tuberculosis and, as I’d lived there for 8 months, I required a chest x-ray to go along with my application. The Australian immigration folks only have two approved centres in Auckland which are able complete this as part of the online system. Luckily one of the centres was in the CBD and therefore not too far away.

You can go to any centre you like but if they’re not on the immigration approved list, you have to courier the films to Tazmania in order for the officers at immigration to assess them. I didn’t fancy that so I registered for the online service and popped on down to the authorised centre in Auckland CBD.

The x-ray process itself was very simple. I handed in my form, passport, paid approximately $70 NZD and got x-ray’d. The results were registered online there and then by the radiologist and I left thinking “Fantastic! It’ll l probably be cleared tomorrow.” because the website had told me it takes 24 hours for online medical results to be processed.

The next day I was disappointed to see that my application status still listed me as requiring a chest x-ray. I wondered if someone hasn’t pushed the required button yet and decided not to panic.

After the weekend, I receivd an email notifying me I was required to get a chest x-ray to support my application. “Uh oh” was my initial reaction. I thought I’d probably confused the computers because I got the chest x-ray before receiving the relevant email (I’d taken my prompt from the application status checker on the immigration site). Bugger. Time to speak to a human.

After a decent amount of time spent on hold (about 25 minutes. It’s a good job Skype credit calls are so blooming cheap) I got through to a very lovely lady and explained the situation. She assured me it did not matter that I had completed the chest x-ray as they are valid for a year after you lodge your application. Phew. The kicker was that she advised it can take up to 2 weeks for medical information to be loaded into immigration systems. The 24 hour assessment period only applies once the info has been received. This wasn’t great news.

I’d planned to go back to Australia within a week of getting to New Zealand and to just see Auckland in that time. Instead, I was confronted with the prospect of 2 weeks and not much cash to play with.

I spent the rest of that day deciding how I would spend my time. I settled on a week in Auckland, diving at Tutukaka and then visiting relatives for a week in Wellington. I made all the necessary coach bookings and settled back resigned to the fact that I may as well enjoy myself and spend lots of non existent money.

I spent the rest of the day booking and paying for things to see and do in each place. At about 7pm New Zealand time I received an email from the Australian Immigration service. It advised my via had been granted. I was delighted and then I swore.

New Zealand – Perfect Poor Knights and Watery Whangarei

Whilst in New Zealand, I deemed it would be quite rude not to go to one of Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s top 10 dive sites in the world. I left Auckland with Naked bus and traveled to Whangarei because that’s as close to the dive site as you can get on cheap buses. Naked Bus was not only cheap but it was also on time and efficient. No messing.

Once in Whangarei, I checked into the YHA after ascending a steep hill and waiting for their reception to open. The hostel was OK but nothing special (the bathroom was bloody freezing in the morning which I did not appreciate). I think it’s been sold now anyway so you probably can’t stay any more which is a shame as it had the only functioning VHS player I’ve seen in 10 years.

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Anyway, Whangarei is a picturesque enough town with cafes and souvenir shops. I managed to source a Kiwi charm for my bracelet and many other things to send home which I did at the post office in Whangarei town.

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There really isn’t a lot to do there though. I was in Whangarei simply because it is the main transit point before Tutukaka and Tutukaka is where you leave from to dive at the Poor Knights Islands.

My original plan was to do a live aboard trip but the weather scuppered that. Instead, I did a single day diving with Dive Tutukaka, possibly the nicest dive centre in the world. Firstly, every stupid question I posed via email or telephone was answered thoroughly and promptly by some of the friendliest staff I’ve ever encountered. Second, the dive boat (Bright Arrow) was great; It coped really well with some pretty choppy water. Third, the return shuttle from Whangarei to Tutukaka was very reasonable ($20 NZD). Fourth, the dive prices were very reasonable. Fifth, they provide pictures from the day free of charge via Facebook. Amazing!

Diving at the Poor Knights Island seems like it’s endless. On the dive boat there were 2 seriously experienced guys who had been diving over 20 years and they still haven’t been to all the sites at Poor Knights.

I had a lot to overcome on my 2 dives because it was cold water and I was in a full wetsuit. I’d never dived cold water before and never dived in a full suit, therefore, I struggled with buoyancy and body temperature. I did look like a superhero in the full suit though.

The first 5 minutes of my first dive (at Bird Rock) was spent hanging onto some kelp trying to sort my buoyancy out. I eventually got a handle on it and we set off. I saw the most beautiful school of pink maomao, many eels, scorpion fish, tonnes of nudibranchs and a plethora of more common fish. A superb dive that ended too soon. I enjoyed it.

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The second site (the Rock) felt better because I was used to the buoyancy change and borrowed some gloves to keep my hands warm. The marine life was superb as were the stunning kelp forests. The most unexpected treat for me was colouration seen on the rock faces. It ranged from black to lilac with blues, yellows and oranges in there too. Simply lovely. There were amazing overhangs which made me go ‘wow’. I had the pleasure of swimming against the flow of a large school which simply didn’t care I was there.

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Out of the water the view isn’t bad either. This is the highest rock arch in the southern hemisphere (I think).

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And this is just a wicked sail through cave thingy.

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Beautiful to look at and easy to marvel at how nature works. Don’t miss the Poor Knights if you’re in New Zealand.

New Zealand – Alluring Auckland

My transfer from airport to hostel was smooth as a baby’s bum and I collapsed gratefully into my bunk. I stayed at Newton Lodge which is a 10 minute walk from Auckland CBD. It was clean and warm. What else do you want for $21 NZD a night?

My first few days in Auckland were spent lost in administration (which will be covered in another blog) but when I did eventually get going, here’s what I got up to.

Auckland CBD is basically 1 main street (Queen Street) flanked by several other less busy streets. It has shops, cafes, eateries, a cinema, hostels, hotels, a theatre, a city hall and a harbour at the end. The harbour is a good looking thing though.

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Unless you want to shop, there’s not a whole lot to do on Queen street. I saw a film (The Wolverine, I didn’t think much to it), drank coffee and bought some beautiful shoes. You have to travel a little to see interesting stuff.

Back when I was young, one of my school friends emigrated to New Zealand and lives in Auckland. This meant I was treated to a wonderful catch up and a chauffeur driven trip to a black sand beach. More specifically,  Piha beach. I’ve never seen a black sand beach and my first trip was rather bracing and threatened with rain. I can only imagine how busy it is in summer with the sun beaming.

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Auckland is built on/around many volcanoes and I think this is how black sand beaches came to be. I don’t know the true origin but I think it’s more likely to be volcanic than my other theory (which is that food colouring is used to stain sand grains black).

Whilst in Auckland, I thought it would be rude not to go and visit the museum. It’s a 15-20 minute walk from the CBD and located in a place called the Domain. The name sounds ominous but what you’ll actually find in the Domain is a great green space. There’s a cafe and the museum quite close to one another so you can have a rest after your (uphill) walk. Here’s the museum.

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Entry to the museum is free for Aucklanders but for everyone else it’s $10 NZD. I opted for a tour and to attend the Maori cultural performance so my bill was $35 NZD.

They have some striking pieces in the museum but maybe the most impacting is the stained glass ceiling.

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The top floor is mostly dedicated to the war memorial but the museum does contain various collections. These range from animals in the deep seas to inhabitants of the Pacific Islands which contributed to migrating populations in New Zealand. There is a dedicated Maori heritage collection.

I very much enjoyed the Maori cultural show. The participants demonstrated various training techniques, weapons and tools accompanied by beautiful vocal arrangements. The biggest impression was left by the Haka they performed. I cannot find the words to describe the effect a haka had on me ,even when I knew i was not about to be attacked. I found myself shrinking towards the back of my chair despite best efforts at withstanding intimidation. It is truly a fearsome and powerful thing. Excuse my photography but the room was dimly lit and I was a few rows back.

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As I’d ticked the box labeled ‘culture’, I progressed onto the one labeled ‘geek’. I am referring to the fact that I visited the Hobbiton set on a day trip from Auckland. I booked with a company, whom I can thoroughly recommend, called Bush and Beach. I was collected from the door of my accommodation at 6:35 in the morning and the day began.

It’s a few hours drive from Auckland to the Hobbiton set but on the way our guide informed us about the landscape, native species and conservation in the area. New Zealand native birds had so few predators that they evolved to be flightless. When man arrived with cats, dogs, stoats, possums and rats, the flightless bird took a real hammering. In an effort to revitalise the populations, areas of their habitats have been fenced off, all predators removed from inside the fence and the species reintroduced. It seems to be working not only for native animals but also for native plants. New Zealand is slowly returning areas to their pre man state.

All this learning was a welcome distraction for me as I was almost ready to eat my fist with excitement. When we eventually arrived at the set I was basically hopping with joy. The first thing that struck me was the absolute, untouched beauty of the place.

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You get collected from the visitor centre by a bus and taken to the set. You are left in no doubt as to where you’re headed.

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A guide accompanies you around the set and points out Hobbit holes of interest, regails you with trivia, behind the scenes facts and is generally very entertaining and informative. For example, when filming the party scene, from The Fellowship of the Ring, extras were given beer to drink prior to filming in order to make the atmosphere authentic. The beer was 1% strength and brewed especially for the film. You can still buy the beer in the shop. Here’s a shot of the party tree.

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And here is Bag End! If you watch the Hobbit, you will see Frodo and Bilbo removing letters from that very postbox.

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The entire process of building the set was lengthy and a logistical nightmare. The New Zealand army was drafted in, lakes were drained, roads were built and a mammoth undertaking was completed.

The most impressive thing for me was the Green Dragon pub. It has been decorated inside to be just like you see it in the films. It was very cosy and the specially brewed pale ale was delicious.

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The attention to detail is amazing inside the pub.

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It’s a properly licenced food and drink venue and can cater for events and weddings (of which there have been a few). I wanted to stay and have more beer but we were moved along. Still, lots of fun and one last shot of the hobbit holes to leave you with.

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Auckland is incredibly relaxed and quiet. Considering a third of the New Zealand population lives in Auckland, you might find that hard to believe but, I thought it was quiet.

Border Bureaucracy – New Zealand Edition

The 4 hour flight from Melbourne to Auckland passed without incident. I watched ‘The Great Gatsby’ and filled in my landing card. Immigration was cleared and my luggage was collected so I headed for customs.

You have to declare some seriously odd stuff when you enter New Zealand e.g. shoes you’ve worn outdoors in the last week. I had dutifully declared all the weird things and confidently placed my bags on the conveyor for xraying. Next thing I know, I’m pulled aside and being asked what this thing in my bag is. It looked like a pack of sausages, it really did, and I could not think what it was. It was three distinct cylindrical looking shapes packed tightly next to each other.

I began to panic.  I thought back to the ‘has anyone tampered with your luggage’ question that you answer automatically at check in and wondered if someone had tampered with it. My internal monologue was as follows:

“What if some ruffian has planted a pack of sausages on me? What if it’s drugs? Oh s#&t, it’s drugs. It’s wraps of crack. I’m going to jail. That’s it. I’ve had drugs planted on me and now this nice man is going to find them and I’m going to go to jail unlawfully because some bloody bottom feeder stashed his gear in my bag when I was distracted by something shiny or food. The f#@*er. I’m going to go Liam Neesom on him when I find him, or her. I mean it could have been a girl. Oh s#&t, s#&t, s#&t, s#&t, s#&t.”

As the man with the latex gloves on approached I could feel myself sweating. He unzipped my bag and began to rifle around. I prepared myself to be tackled and cuffed by law enforcers. I wondered if I could make a run for it but decided I’d gotten too fat and unfit to attempt a runner. The exits were heavily staffed. I was doomed, unjustly doomed.

I felt my heart rate quicken as he saw something and looked puzzled. His puzzlement became a smile. “Of course he’s smiling” I thought, “he just busted an unwilling drug trafficker!” then he spoke,

“Ah! It’s your bars of soap we saw on the xray. Off you go!”.

I laughed with relief but internally was concentrating on not wetting myself. I scurried away, swaying ever so slightly, trying to ignore the muscle at the edge of my eye twitching furiously.

Emma 0 – 1 Irrational brain logic.

Australia – Brilliant Brisbane

Brisbane was my destination after Sydney. To get there I took a Countrylink overnight train which cost me $65AUD. The trains have regular seats so it’s not the most comfortable ride but there is a buffet car so you can get hot food and drinks all journey. The journey would have been ok if it hadn’t been for one disgustingly drunk idiot who yelled at staff and passengers all night.

After the train ride ended and I arrived in Brisbane, my lovely couchsurfing host collected me from the station and took me to the most beautiful thing I might ever have seen. It was a room with a bed in it that I didn’t have to share with anyone else. After a night on a train with a few hundred people and nearly 10 months in dorm rooms with up to 23 other people, the room was a little piece of paradise.

To get around in Brisbane, you’ll need a Go card. This is a plastic card which you load money onto. You then tap on and off transport as you use it and the appropriate fare is deducted. There’s a refundable $10AUD deposit to pay when you first get the card but you can claim that, and any remaining positive balance, back when you hand it in to a ticket office.

Anyway, I’ve deviated. Brisbane City is set on the Brisbane river (excellent naming convention there) and as a result has some amazing riverside living and attractions. It also has a bit of a flooding problem but they’re working on that. One of my favourite riverside areas was the Southbank.

The entire Southbank area was flattened for Expo 88 and then rebuilt after all the expo structures were dismantled. There are still echoes of expo to see. Whilst in Brisbane, I took a free guided walk run by the Brisbane Greeters. The ‘Greeter’ programme is run worldwide and gets locals involved in showing tourists around their Cities. The tour I took covered quite a lot of how Brisbane changed before and after Expo 88. Here’s an example of an expo remnant, a hovering man on a unicycle.

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There’s also a fairly fun exhibition about Expo 88 in the city hall where there have examples of float designs and general expo paraphernalia. I enjoyed the costumes the best. This one reminded me of feathery friends in Sydney.

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Anyway, after Expo 88 the Southbank area was rebuilt with many awesome features. One of my favourites is this man made beach. You can swim, sunbathe and build sand castles next to the river in the middle of the city!

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As there’s a river running through the city, it’s a good idea to have ways to cross it. There’s a pretty good (free) ferry service called the City Hopper and their little red ferries will move you between stops on the river very happily. There’s also the City Cat (paid for service) running almost the whole length of the city. There’s a free audio that you can download and listen to whilst you’re on the City Cat. It’ll tell you about Brisbane landmarks as you pass them. It’s well worth a trip and a listen if you’ve got time.

The most convenient and efficient way to cross the river is to use bridges. There’s plenty of them. This is a shot of the pedestrian and cycle bridge which I nicknamed the porcupine bridge (actually called the Kurilpa bridge).

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The most iconic bridge in Brisbane is probably the Story bridge. It has echoes of the Sydney Harbour bridge but on a smaller scale. It’s still fairly impressive and you can find interesting pubs built right underneath it.

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The Story bridge is illuminated at night which makes it look very imposing and ever so shiny.

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Whilst in Brisbane, I got the impression that the city council cares about and wants to encourage more walking and cycling in Brisbane. I completely agree. The city isn’t huge and is easily accessible by both bike and foot. There’s plenty of dedicated cycle paths and bridges. Here’s another pedestrian and cyclist only bridge, the Goodwill bridge.

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There’s is a cycle hire scheme in Brisbane but no real information available on how to use it. It’s also illegal to ride without a helmet in Brisbane so, if you do hire a bike, you have to have appropriate gear for it.

Architecture in Australia is generally from the period I enjoy looking at the most. It may not be old but I enjoyed it immensely. St. Andrew’s Uniting Church (right opposite the city hall) is an imposing red brick church which can not fail to catch your eye.

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City Hall itself is a great building.

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There’s several free guided tours of city hall each day but make sure you book your spot because they fill up fast. There’s also a free trip you can take up the clock tower for good views of Brisbane, a novelty trip in a manual lift and a look at some big bells.

The Auditorium inside city hall has a rather awesome ceiling dome which sparkles pretty colours. I went to see free music there at 12 on a Tuesday. It’s great that the city council puts on free music every week inside city hall. It’s first come first served so get there a little earlier to guarantee a seat.

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There really is a lot to see and do in Brisbane. On the ‘Greeters’ walk we visited the University in order to play with a giant, interactive touchscreen.

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We also dropped in to look around Old Government House. It’s an interesting building that has a good video introduction you can watch which gives you decent overview of the house history. There’s no entrance fee either which makes it even more satisfying to go see.

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Both the university and old government house are located pretty close to the botanic gardens which are definitely worth a walk around. There’s a free guided walk (daily) you can take around those too.

Kangaroo point is another good place to go and see. It has some lovely views of the city.

Apart from the actual city, Brisbane has some amazing outdoor space. One of my personal favourites was a Sunday morning walk through the undergrowth of Mount Gravatt. The view when you get to the top makes your sweaty back seem worth it.

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There’s another big hill you can go up called Mount Cootha. There’s botanic gardens next to Mount Cootha which you can walk around but, let’s be honest, you go up a hill for the view.

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The pace of life in Brisbane was definitely several steps more relaxed than in Sydney. It’s a great place to just chill out. It’s only a short drive/train ride from beaches of the Gold and Sunshine coasts. Is a gorgeous city full of wonderful people.

Australia – Superstar Sydney

In typical ‘me’ style, I managed to pack quite a lot into a week in Sydney.

I couch surfed for my first few nights in Sydney. I had a lovely host and stayed outside the city in Thornleigh. It was really good to see the suburbs and get a feel for life outside the main city drag.

Whilst in Thornleigh I visited the Koala Park Sanctuary in Pennant Hills. It’s not just a sanctuary for koalas though, there’s plenty of other animals to see.

I really enjoyed the birds which, considering birds normally freak me out, was a surprise. There are birds in enclosures and ones roaming around. I saw plenty of peacocks and bush turkeys wandering through the park.

These sulphur crested cockatoos made for interesting viewing and conversation, they say hello a lot.

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In the same enclosure was a pink cockatoo which seemed much quieter than the sulphur crested ones.

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There’s quite a collection of birds including kookaburras , frog mouthed tawny owls, rainbow lorikeets and tree foxes that look like bats. All sorts for all tastes. I will warn you that cockatoos are noisy so and so’s.

An animal in the park which surprised me were the Dingos. I didn’t expect them to be as majestic and good looking as they are.

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The koalas and kangaroos in the park have all been bred in captivity so they are used to humans and, as a result, very placid. They are not so relaxed in the wild. Koalas have a reputation for being quite fierce and can inflict pretty nasty injuries. With that in mind, here’s three of them all squeezed into one tree.

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Here’s me posing beside one.

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You’re not allowed to hold them in new South Wales but that was ok. You can stroke them and they’re really fuzzy.

You just saunter into the kangaroo enclosure and feed them with special food bought from the shop.  You can stroke them too but I wasn’t brave enough.

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Wallabies are similar looking to kangaroos except they’re smaller and cuter. This swap wallaby wanted to say hello from inside the enclosure.

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There’s possums and wombats at the park too but I only saw their bums. It was cold and rainy so they were sleeping.  They’re nocturnal anyway but they wouldn’t rouse even for food. Oh well.

There’s a sheep shearing and boomerang throwing show twice a day which is fun to go to. Here’s the sheep losing it’s fleece.

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I really enjoyed the park and would recommend it as the $26 enhance fee is worth it.

After my few nights in the suburbs, I stayed in the city at The Palms Backpackers in Potts Point. I really liked the hostel. It was clean, friendly and did exactly what it said on the tin. It’d stay again.

Once I was in the city, I started exploring it.

The Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney are beautiful. The free guided walk was great and there’s 2 daily. Our guide was a volunteer called Phillip and he was full of facts. We were escorted around some key areas and told about native species of plants/trees and the history of the gardens.

I personally thought this flower was gorgeous.

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Towards the end of the walk, we happened upon some owls sleeping in a tree.

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You can walk right through the gardens to get to the opera house.  The best views of the opera house are from Circular Quay’s side of the harbour in my opinion. The opera house is still impressive from the gardens side but you don’t see the iconic shape everyone associates with it from the garden side.

There’s a big, gothic style, building in the gardens called Government House but you can only go inside on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday so I didn’t get to see it. Here’s a picture of the house in the grounds. It’s fairly imposing.

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Just around the corner from the botanic gardens is Hyde park barracks. This is where convicts were housed when they got off the boats in Sydney.

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It was built by convicts and has a varied and interesting history. It’s now a museum which covers topics such as how the convicts lived, what they’d done wrong, how they’d ended up in Australia, what work they did and how Sydney evolved.

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The museum also has a lot of information on the building itself. It’s served many purposes since it was built. It was a convict barracks, then it was an orphanage for girls left parentless during the Irish potato blight. After that it was an asylum for elderly and infirm women who couldn’t work and didn’t have a home (no welfare back then). It was finally government offices before being made into a museum. Very interesting stuff.

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The free introduction tour was good and the audio guide you receive included with the entrance fee was superbly informative. Entrance for adults is $10 and entirely worth.

Another heritage building in Sydney is the Royal Mint. Entrance is free, which is good, because there’s not a lot to see. It was built as a hospital before being turned into the mint and now the only real part of the main mint building left is the safe. The building is used as offices and meeting rooms now so there’s not a lot you can walk round and see. However, there are still people on the door who will walk you around and tell you the limited facts they know for free.

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Apparently the coin minting building is important as only two remain in the world and the Sydney one is in the best condition. Something new every day!

Very close to both the barracks and the mint is St. Marys Cathedral. I didn’t go inside but it’s a very red, very large thing.

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Another major landmark of Sydney is the Harbour Bridge.

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I don’t really know what to say other than it’s big and made of metal. I walked over it.

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The view back across the harbour is awesome once you’re on the bridge.

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The harbour is just generally beautiful. It really is. I could picture myself enjoying dinner and drinks there. The area was where initial settlers made their homes and original buildings have been preserved and converted well.

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It you want to forget you’re in a big city for a while, you should do the Coogee to Bondi beach walk. It’s around 6km long and all of it stunning. Here’s Coogee beach where we started (we took a bus from the city of to Coogee) but you can start at Bondi.

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You really do just walk up the coast. It’s well signposted and you can’t get lost if you keep following the coastline. There’s heaps of cute coves to stop at with quiet beaches so it’s a very leisurely activity.

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When you get to Bondi, you realise just how busy it is compared to Coogee and why.

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I managed to squeeze in a quick trip to Manly but really didn’t have enough time to draw conclusions so I won’t. I will say that the views of the harbour from the ferry alone is worth the return fare of $14.40.

Sydney is amazing. I think I’m in big trouble as I could definitely see myself living and working there.

Asian Adventures – An Amalgamation of the ‘Best (and worst) Bits’

This will probably be the trickiest blog I’ll ever write but I’d like to try and summarise the best and worst bits of my travels in Asia (Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Malaysia and Singapore). I’m going to be as objective as I can. These are still my own personal thoughts and opinions so don’t be offended if I think something was a worst and you think it’s a best. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and you’re allowed to have differing ones so no bees in bonnets please.

There’s some categories where I have winners and runners up because it was too close for me to call a single best or worst.

Here goes:

Best Hostel

WINNER:
Siholme Backpackers, Vientiane, Laos
Although I only stayed a single night I was still very impressed. The dorms were great, the bathrooms were clean and modern, the atmosphere was friendly, there was a movie room, a pool table, a bar, friendly staff and amusing murals/slogans painted around the place. Just a great all round hostel with, honestly, no bad points.

RUNNER UP:
Mojzo Inn, Nha Trang, Vietnam
This place was amazing. The breakfast included in your room price was cooked fresh for you and there was a choice of four things. The dorms were air conditioned all day and there were decent sized lockers in the rooms. The refillable water tap was great. The WiFi was fast and available all over the hostel. The place is a two minute stroll from the beach and the staff are so lovely it’s ridiculous. The only reason Mojzo Inn isn’t the overall winner is because the dorm was a little small for six people and the bathroom did smell a little bit musty.

Best Food

WINNER:
Taiwan
The food in Taiwan is plentiful, cheap, fresh, full of flavour and a great balance of traditional and modern novelty . I was not disappointed with anything from the food markets or restaurants in Taiwan. It was consistently superb. Taiwan has some amazing night markets where you can get some of the best food I’ve ever eaten. Do not miss the Taiwanese milk tea. It’s absolutely delicious and you can get it with tapioca pearls or jelly to make it more of a dessert than a drink. Don’t be surprised or concerned if your food/drink is served to you in a bag, that’s normal. Basically, go to Taiwan and eat all the food.

RUNNER UP:
Thailand
Thai food is full of flavour and reasonably cheap. It’s also on the milder side of spicy. Traditional dishes such as pad thai, thai red and green curries and massaman curries are widely available and generally very tasty. Restaurants and food stalls seem to turn out a similar quality of food. My ‘don’t miss’ food in Thailand is sticky rice. It doesn’t matter if you have mango and sticky rice as a dessert or get a savoury sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf from a stall, just make sure you try it!

Best Locals

WINNER:
Cambodia
When it comes to resilience, determination and a forgiving spirit, I don’t think you will find a nation of people who can best the Cambodians. They are simply some of the friendliest, kindest, most welcoming and genuinely happy people I have ever met.

When you look at Cambodian history, it really does paint a grim picture, it’s all war, death and strife. The most recent horrors happened when Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge tried to reshape Cambodia as a self sufficient, farming Country. It ended with an incomprehensible genocide leaving around 1 in 5 Cambodians dead or missing. This was all very recent, we’re talking within my parents life time, so there are Cambodians alive today who remember the regime, their dead relatives and everything that went along with it pretty vividly.

Despite their recent and harrowing past, Cambodians are upbeat and optimistic. There’s no wallowing or ‘woe is us’ attitudes, only respectful remembrance and an upbeat attitude towards the future. For me, this is a singularly amazing thing. An entire nation was subjected to immense tragedy and hardship but have emerged the other side determined to right the wrongs and heal their communities.

This, coupled with their enthusiasm, genuine nature and overall loveliness, makes the Cambodians my favourite people in Asia.

RUNNER UP:
Taiwan
Taiwanese are incredibly hospitable and happy go lucky. I don’t have a bad word to say about them. If I needed help and someone didn’t speak English, other locals would pitch in to help and make sure I was ok. They really are fabulous and never got annoyed at any level of incompetence on my part. Simply lovely.

Best Shopping

WINNER:
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Amazing mix of markets and super modern malls. The shopping here really has something for everyone. Want some good fakes? Head to Petaling Street. Want something crafty for a souvenir? Get to the central market. Want to feel more at home with western brands? Any air conditioned mall will sort you out with a good range of budget to luxury brands. I really mean it when I say I think you could buy anything in Kuala Lumpur.

Best Historic Sights

WINNER:
Angkor Historic Park
I did three entries on the Angkor temples so I’m not going to repeat myself. I’ll just say, do not miss.

Best Natural Sights

WINNER:
Sapa, Vietnam
Again, I wrote a while entry dedicated to Sapa so I won’t re-cover old ground. Amazing views across an amazing Country. Make time to go to Sapa.

RUNNER UP:
Cameron Highlands, Malaysia
Truly lovely landscape in the Cameron Highlands. Lots of winding roads and walks to do. It’s the runner up here as the area does feel very much like it’s all for tourists but you can escape that if you walk the right paths. The touristy aspect does spoil the natural beauty of the area a bit for me though.

Best Modern Sights

WINNER:
Singapore
Singapore is a clean, shiny, modern metropolis with stunning high rise buildings. It’s well planned and executed better. Stunning modern city with a stunning modern price tag.

Best Border

WINNER:
Malaysia to Singapore
Overall it was the least worrying and easiest to navigate because the English spoken on both sides was of a good level.

Best Bus

WINNER:
Hanh Cafe Sleeper bus from Ho Chi Minh to Nha Trang, Vietnam
The route has decent roads, the bus was swanky and single seated (so no snoring stranger in your ear hole) and the ticket was a reasonable price.

Best Overall Value Attraction

WINNER:
Huê City, Vietnam
Lots of the heritage sites in Huê don’t have an entry fee so it’s incredibly cheap to see lots of important historic and cultural areas.

Best Overall Value Country

WINNER:
Laos
Accommodation and food in Laos is cheap and generally of good quality. Entry fees to attractions seem to be good value and shared taxis/tuk tuks make travelling short distances reasonable. Longer distances can be covered by boat or bus at, again, a pretty good price. Overall, Laos works out as the best value for me.

Best Overall Town/City

WINNER:
Tokyo
Tokyo might be expensive but it’s worth it. The city is huge, sprawling and complicated but it’s fabulous. There’s still plenty of hidden gems in alleyways nestled between modern high rises to discover. There’s also tonnes of heritage stuff to see and explore. The Japanese definitely put a lot of emphasis on preserving their history and culture. As modern as Tokyo is, if you look around, you will find temples nestled in the centre of busy metropolitan areas.

It’s a unique city that I enjoyed immensely. If you want more details, you can see my blog entry on Tokyo.

Personal favourite thing

WINNER:
SCUBA diving, Koh Tao, Thailand
Learning to dive was the single best experience I had on my trip in Asia. My dive school (Big Blue) was well organised, the instructors (and trainee instructors) were friendly and professional, the island is beautiful and the diving itself was fabulous.

SCUBA diving is the overall winner because it’s something I can do for the rest of my life and will be doing again on the rest of my trip.

RUNNER UP:
Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Walking around with, washing and feeding elephants is something I probably won’t ever get the opportunity to do again and it was incredible. If you want more details on the park, please see my blog post on it.

Worst Hostel

WINNER:
Rainbow guesthouse, Khao San Road, Thailand
Hideous! Awful mattresses, dirty dorms, terrible security (the door to the room didn’t lock and the provided lockers in the restaurant are less than ok), disgusting bathrooms, air conditioning was inadequate and got turned off at 8am, sheets were stained and the whole place was just worn down and broken.

Worst Food

WINNER:
Hong Kong
The food in Hong Kong is questionable unless you are paying top dollar for it. I was never really sure what went into any of the food I ate and a lot of it was flavourless mush. There’s a few hidden gems but, on the whole, food in Hong Kong is dodgy.

Worst Locals

WINNER:
Vietnam
I found the people of Vietnam to be consistently rude and biased against foreigners or to be the nicest people in the world. There seemed not to be a middle ground. I found the prejudice really hard to deal with and the attitude of locals intent on not accepting tourists onto buses or into food places really tainted Vietnam for me. It’s a real shame because the lovely locals really were very helpful and sweet but they didn’t quite off set the venom I felt from everyone else.

Worst Shopping

WINNER:
Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh didn’t seem to have much in the way of shopping. Even in the markets it was mostly food, household items or technology. Even though there would be many different stalls, they seemed to all sell the same items. Just not very varied or accessible for most people.

Worst Historic Sights

WINNER:
Singapore
Singapore is very shiny and new so it doesn’t really have much in the way of historic buildings or culture to experience. If you want new and modern, Singapore is for you. If you’re into history, maybe think carefully as it how much time you need in Singapore.

Worst Natural Sights

WINNER:
Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok really doesn’t have parks or walks you can enjoy. It’s all incredibly built up and concreted over.

Worst Modern Sights

WINNER:
Cambodia
Cambodia had a distinct lack of modern buildings and very few high rise buildings. Most Sights in Cambodia are old and for history buffs. There’s no shining buildings beautifully lit at night to stroll around in Cambodia, it all has a rustic feel.

Worst Border

WINNER:
Thailand to Cambodia
This border was the worst because it was the only one I could not get an international bus for. Having to work out onward transport from the border further into Cambodia was pretty slap dash. It’s a stressful feeling when you’re doing it alone, for the first time so I guess that’s why it was the worst.

Worst Bus

WINNER:
Luang Prabang, Laos to Chiang Mai, Thailand
This was an overnight bus along scary, winding mountain roads. The turns were so sharp that my head hit the widow on several occasions. It was a sitting bus so sleeping was an unlikely prospect anyway but the turns made it completely impossible. Just a long, scary journey.

Worst Overall Value attraction

WINNER:
Royal Palace, Bangkok, Thailand
600 baht is too expensive. Full stop.

Worst Overall Value Country

WINNER:
Singapore
Singapore is just heinously expensive for everything. Considering labour is still relatively cheap in Singapore, there’s no real justification for it.

Worst Overall Town/City

Bangkok, Thailand
I just didn’t like Bangkok. It wasn’t for me. I felt like everyone was out to fleece me for all the money they could and that the locals were insincere. It smells funny too.

Personal least favourite thing

WINNER:
The Climate
Asia is too hot and humid for me.